Taste Marrakesh, one of the most delicious places in the world

Many people encounter Morrocan food long before setting foot in the country, but as Amanda Mouttaki discovered on her first trip, being in a country with rich culinary culture doesn’t automatically lead to unforgettable food experiences. So she made it her mission to turn eating in Marrakech into an authentic encounter with the city’s soul.

What made you fall so in love with Morrocan food you had to curate food tours of Marrakech?

Ironically enough, my first experiences with Moroccan food were not positive. I came to Morocco as a tourist, and we ate the same food - chicken tagine with preserved lemons and olives - every single day for 12 days. By the time we left, I had no idea if there were even other kinds of Moroccan food.

What changed?

On that first trip, I also happened to meet the man that's my husband now. When I came back to Morocco to visit him, I had my first opportunity to eat real Moroccan food at home, and my perspective really changed. Seeing how his mom and sisters made traditional dishes and, of course, eating them was a completely different experience. The one dish that really stood out to me was a roasted chicken stuffed with spiced vermicelli noodles and had a tangy, lemony sauce. It's still one of my favourite things.

What happens when we encounter Marrakech through food?

Marrakech is a big city, but it's got a small-town feel to it in a lot of ways. The traditions here are strong, and food is really important to everyone. Going to local markets is still quite common. People know the people who sell their food and are picky. However, because Marrakech is a very touristic city, there's almost a double layer to food culture here; the food for tourists and the food locals eat, with the latter inevitably being more authentic. You'll see loads of small food vendors that sell one or two things; maybe it's harira soup or msemmen; a kind of Moroccan bread. That's all they do. People specialise. These are the best places - in my opinion - to get to know food culture if you can't get an invite to someone's home.

What are your top places to eat for the following encounter of the city:

Eating with the best view: The terrace at L'Mida. This said, most rooftops in the city have a great view, either of the city itself or the High Atlas Mountains.
Eating at a simple, soulful joint where the food tastes like a mother’s love: The Amal Women's Center because their Moroccan dishes are very similar to what you would eat at home.
Your favourite restaurant: I've probably eaten at well over 125 restaurants in Marrakech, and it's impossible to pick one. One thing I love to do is to go to the Medina and just stop at small street food vendors and eat.
One of my favourites is a small stand that sells a spiced chicken cooked in a sauce with loubia (white beans). It's so simple but really so good.
The most unique thing to eat: Tangia - this is the dish that is Marrakech. It's something Moroccans from all over the country come here to eat.
Top street food to sample and where to sample them: Grilled kefta, which is spiced ground beef on charcoal with salt and cumin sprinkled on top and a bowl of spiced lentils on the side; Sfinge are puffy yeast doughnuts that aren't sweet but are dipped in honey; and a bowl of bssara, a fava bean puree with lots of fresh olive oil on top, and sprinkled with cumin and chilli pepper powder. You eat it with a round barley bread that's perfect for this dish - with a glass of mint tea, of course.

You organize food tours of the city. What inspired you to do this, and why does connecting people to places through food excite you?

The hardest part of navigating Marrakech is that streets, especially in the Medina, are rarely marked by name. And even if they have a name, people don't use street names, nor do shops and restaurants have a fixed address that is easily found. It's one reason we started doing food tours - I literally couldn't tell people where to find things.

My first experience with food in Morocco wasn't great. I wanted people to leave the country, having had at least one positive food experience. I also wanted to share stories and feel they were going out with a friend and not just going on another tour. Our tours really aim to do all these things. It's a meal out with a local friend who you can chat with and ask anything.

Morocco is world-famous for its food, making it a perfect setting for a country-wide food tour. Which other parts of the country do you recommend as top food destinations?

Tangier. Food in the north of Morocco has lots of similarities but also differences. The North has been far more influenced by Spain and the broader Mediterranean, so you'll find dishes that don't exist further south. Try the kalinte (chickpea pie) in Tangier.
Essaouira. I love the diversity of food here. They have a really good baguette-style bread that just tastes different here. There's also a heavy influence from Moroccan Jewish cuisine, which can be seen in things like the marzipan cookies you can buy here. Of course, fresh seafood is also a must. It can be grilled port side and eaten within minutes of coming off the boats.
The High Atlas region. I may be partial because this is my backyard, but we've eaten some of the best food ever in the mountain areas. People cook what they grow, forage or make (like fresh butter), and the quality is amazing. Food is usually cooked over an open fire or basic cooking appliances.

Marrakech Food Tours has a menu of experiences around the city and trips to Essaouira and the High Atlas regio0n. Contact them here.